Can there ever be too many patchwork blocks featuring stars? Well, probably yes. Fair enough BUT can there ever be too many triangle scrap buster blocks? No. Never! I set out thinking about
pest control ... a way to make use of the ever multiplying triangle scraps we all produce.
Therefore, I am pleased to present the 'Stellar Flare' Patchwork Block for your sewing pleasure. Wonky stars galore and with them a chance to use up plenty of trinangle scraps. Let's get right to it.
'Stellar Flare Quilt Block'
I worked with the 'Berry Harvest' bundle which contains five
Cirrus Solids that have especially been curated by our
Cloud 9 blog hop hosts for this occasion. The solids in question are Amazon, Sky, Iris, Lilac, and Shadow. And, Oh boy, are those fabrics soft! They are also prone to unravel a little bit at the edges but were great to work with nonetheless.
This block is a nine patch variation with some sew, slash and sew again
elements. There are only triangles, rectangles, squares and straight seams to sew BUT precision piecing confidence is required.
Skill level: Intermediate
Cutting instructions:
A – Sky
B – Amazon
C – Iris
D – Lilac
E – Iris (again)
F - Shadow
Fabric A
4 squares 1.75 x 1.75
4 rectangles 2.5 x 1.75
2 rectangles 2 x 5
2 rectangles 2 x 7.5
Fabric B
4 strips 1 x 10
Fabric C
1 square 2.5 x 2.5
8 triangle scraps
(or 8 squares 2 x 2)
Fabric D
8 rectangles 4.25 x 1.5
(4.25 x 2 if you need more room to wiggle)
Fabric E
1 square 2x2
8 triangle scraps
(or 8 squares 1.75 x 1.75)
Fabric F
4 squares 1.75 x 1.75
4 rectangles 2 x 1.75
8 rectangles 4.5 x 2.5
2 squares 4 x 4
(or 4 squares 4.5 x 4.5 if you want to play safe)
Assembly:
General notes:
All
measurements are in inches. Work with a ¼ inch seam throughout. Read
all instructions carefully before commencing to work. Measure and cut
with accuracy. Sometimes I will recommend an alternative sewing option
which is indicated by the change of font colour to '
Berry'.
Step 1 - Wonky star block using fabrics A and C
If for some unfathomable reason you do not happen to have any triangle
scraps but still want to make stars wonky, check out Jenny's '
Tiny Wonky Stars Quilt' tutorial, which works with squares (initially, before producing triangle scraps to continue with =)
Take
the fabric A 2.5 x 1.75 rectangles and the fabric C triangle scraps
(or
the fabric C 2 x 2 squares) and create the star points of your
wonky
(or even) star.
If you are using triangle scraps you will
place them right side down on one rectangle making sure the points
overlap the underlying fabric piece by a ¼ inch minimum. When you flip
the piece over it should cover all the intended underlying area. Take
care to attach the star points in such a way that the base and the
points of the star are aligned along the longer side (2.5) side of the
fabric A rectangles. Press the pieces flat and attach the second star
point.
If you use the fabric C 2 x 2 squares,
attach them as you would any normal HST by aligning them in one corner
and sewing diagonally from corner to corner. This way you will achieve
an even pointed rather than wonky star.
Repeat for each
of the 4 fabric A rectangles, which should each sport two fabric C star
points at the end. Trim the fabric that has been replaced by the star
points off taking care not to cut into your seams. Press all for units.
Flip the units over and trim them back to the size of 2.5 x 1.75.
Take
the fabric C 2.5 x 2.5 square, the four 2.5 x 1.75 wonky star point
units you created and the remaining fabric A 1.75 x 1.75 squares to
assemble the wonky star unit like you would assemble a normal nine patch
block.
Iron the seams of the middle row inwards and the seams of the top and bottom rows outwards. This way you can nest the seams when you join the rows.
The completed star should measure 5 x 5 at this stage. Next take the 2 fabric A 1.5 x 5.5 rectangles and attach them on the opposite sides of the star block. Take the last 2 Fabric A 1.5 x 7.5 rectangles and attach them to the remaining two sides of the star block to form a square.
Take a moment to enjoy
what your star looks like because next, we are going to cut it apart
again. Yes that’s right! Bring out the rotary cutter!
Step 2 – Slash and Sew using the step 1 units and fabric B
Your
star block from step 1 should measure 7.5 x 7.5 at this stage. If it is
too big, trim it down to that size taking care to keep the star in the
middle.
Place your quilting ruler diagonally onto the
square and cut from corner to corner. Carefully lift the ruler without
disturbing the underlying pieces. We do not want them to move just yet.
(if unsure, keep them in place with a bit of washi or builders tape)
Place the ruler diagonally on the other axis to again cut from corner to
corner.
Next we want to sew the fabric B strips to the
triangle pieces making sure the triangles are in the middle of the
fabric B strips.
Take a 1 x 10 fabric B strip, lay it
down right side facing up and gently fold in the middle to create a
middle crease. Take one of the triangle units we just cut. Hold the
piece right side facing down and create a middle crease in its base,
which is its longest side, by folding it corner to corner.
Nest
the fabric B strip and the triangle piece rights side together using
the middle creases as a guide. Hold or pin the fabric pieces in place
and sew the triangle to the fabric B strip using a ¼ seam.
Fold open and press flat. Repeat the process for the three remaining 3 fabric B strips and 3 triangle units.
Step 3 – Another wonky star using fabrics E and F
We
basically repeat the process of step 1 until we have a nine patch wonky
star. (Please note that the measurements differ slightly)
Take
the fabric F 2 x 1.75 rectangles and the fabric E triangle scraps
(or
the fabric E 1.75 x 1.75 squares) and create the star points of your
wonky
(or even) star. If you are using triangle scraps you will place
them right side down on one rectangle making sure the points overlap the
underlying fabric piece by a ¼ inch minimum. When you flip the piece
over it should cover all the intended underlying area. Take care to
attach the star points in such a way that the base and the points of the
star are aligned along the longer side (2.0) side of the fabric F
rectangles. Press the pieces flat and attach the second star point.
If
you use the fabric E 1.75 x 1.75 squares, attach them as you would any
normal HST by aligning them in one corner and sewing diagonally from
corner to corner. This way you will achieve an even pointed rather than
wonky star.
Repeat for each of the 4 fabric F
rectangles, which should each sport two fabric E star points at the end.
Trim the fabric that has been replaced by the star points off taking
care not to cut into your seams. Press all for units. Flip the units
over and trim them back to the size of 2.0 x 1.75.
Take
the fabric E 2.0 x 2.0 square, the four 2.0 x 1.75 wonky star point
units you created and the remaining fabric F 1.75 x 1.75 squares to
assemble the wonky star unit like you would assemble a normal nine patch
block.
Iron the seams of the middle row inwards and the seams of the top and bottom rows outwards. This way you can nest the seams when you join the rows. This time your wonky star should measure 4.5 x 4.5 inches.
Step 4 – Secondary Star Flare Units using fabrics D and F
Mark
the ¼ seam line with a soluble pen or chalk on one of the longer sides
of each fabric D rectangle. Fold the fabric piece over at the marked
line gently finger press.
Take two of the 8 fabric F
4.5 x 2.5 and place them right side up in front of you like shown in the
picture. Now, measuring from the lower right and lower left corner
firstly outward and then secondly upward mark the fabric pieces with a
soluble pen or chalk at 1 inch from that corner on the shorter side and
3.5 from that corner on the longer side. Connect the two points with a
line drawing on the right side of the fabric. We want the pieces to
mirror to create secondary star points or flares. =) Repeat for the remaining fabric F pieces until you have four pairs.
Take
a fabric D piece and use the finger pressed seam allowance to align the
rectangle along the line drawn on the Fabric F piece, making sure to
place it in such a way, as to fully cover the underlying fabric F when
folded over. My, that sounds complicated. Just look at the pictures, it
is very easy =)
Now hold or pin the fabric pieces right
sides together and sew fabric D to the fabric F piece. Repeat the
process for the mirror piece and then for the remaining six fabric F and
fabric D pieces.
Press all the units. Flip them over
and trim them down to the size of 4.5 x 2.5. Now pair a left and right
mirrored unit and sew them together to create the secondary star flares. Press the seams open to reduce the bulk. Each star flare unit should measure 4.5 x 4.5 at this stage.
Step 5 – Some more assembly
Take the 2 fabric F 4 x 4 squares, place a quilting ruler from corner to corner and cut once from corner to corner diagonally.
Use
the thus created fabric F triangles, the secondary star flares units
from step 4 and the wonky star from step 3 and lay them out as you would
a normal nine patch block. Using the fabric F 4 x 4 squares cut up in triangles option cuts down on fabric wastage.
If you feel safer going for
the nine patch proper, use 4 fabric F 4.5 x 4.5 squares instead of the 2-fabric-F 4 x 4-squares-cut-up-in-triangles to assemble the nine patch.
OK, lay your pieces out as shown in the picture and assemble the pieces in rows using a ¼ inch seam.
Assemble the rows to create the nine patch block and press everything flat.
Step 6 – The Finale
Looking
at your block so far you should notice that the flare units have middle
seams that will serve as out guiding lines. Working on the right side
of the fabric, measure 0.75 inches to the left and 0.75 inches to the
right from the middle seam and mark the spot with a soluble pen or
chalk. Repeat the process on all four sides. Then connect the dots to
mark sewing lines as shown in the pictures below.
Take
the triangle corner units created in step 2 and drawing on the wrong
side, mark the ¼ seam line with a soluble pen or chalk along the edge of
what was the Fabric B strip. Fold the marked seam allowance over at the
marked line gently finger press.
Now for the magic
part. =) Place the corner unit along the marked sewing line, taking care
to align that corner unit with the sides of the rest of the block. The lines you have drawn are there to guide you. If it does not quite align along this very line, wiggle around a bit to the left or right until it does. Just have a ruler handy to make sure that the block width on either side amounts to 12.5 inches.
Carefully
flip the corner unit over, trying to make sure to try to keep the piece
in place. Hold or pin the pieces together and sew the corner triangle
unit to the rest of the block along the marked sewing line using a ¼
seam. This is the trickiest part of the assembly. Therefore, I recommend
to baste before sewing properly, just to make sure the corner unit ends
up where it is supposed to.
Use the basting stitch
or lengthen your stitch length and baste along the sewing line without
locking the beginning and end of the seam. Flip the corner over to see
if it aligns properly. If not, gently remove the stitches and repeat
until happy. Shorten the stitch length again or chose your normal sewing
stitch sew along the basted seam, this time locking the start and end
as your normally would.
Repeat for the other three corners. Cut the exess fabric off on the back and fold the corner over. Trim around the edges, give the block a good press and you are done.
The block should now measure 12.5 x 12.5 and isn't it a beauty. Now repeat this process - uhm - say 19 times over and you have a lovely throw quilt - ha ha - or you just task your quilting bee mates next year.
and now, a little causerie to finish things off
WOW, this was an exciting, exhilerating and frightening experience. The deadline or task to write a tutorial did not daunt me BUT the prospect of pulling out an idea and making it work did. I know our favorite bloggers and designers seem to do it all the time - and it looks effortless too =) but it is no small feat to be able to translate an idea into an actual real life object.
I scribble and draw many design ideas onto my writing pad and Post-it notes but this is the first one that was made from those doodles. The maths around the block construction gave me headaches. I made the first sample block in paper, which brought quite a few measurement calculation errors to light. When I started cutting into fabrics for my test block, I felt I had things about right.
What can I say, I LOVE how my little blocks turned out. By now the 'Berry Harvest' version should almost have reached Cheryl to be incorporated into a charity quilt.
(Pssst - by the way - I made the 'Flares' stand out more prominently in this test version and love it! I marked the fabric pieces with a
soluble pen or chalk at 1.25 inches from the corner on the shorter side and 4 inches from the corner on the longer side - compare Step 4)
I hope you will give it a try. If you do, feedback and pictures are always welcome. Just leave a comment beneath this post, send me an e-mail that links to your work or use the hashtag
#stellarflarequiltblock on Instagram. I can't wait to see your work.
Hop some Blogs
This blog hop was generously sponsored by
Cloud 9 Fabrics and made possible by our inspiring blog hop hosts, Yvonne @
Quilting Jetgirl, Cheryl @
Meadow Mist Designs, and Stephanie @
Late Night Quilter. Thank you so much for the opportunity.